Piano Piano Chef Victor Barry: the making of food empire

Since the pandemic began, the Piano Piano frozen pizza brand has built a loyal following of customers, selling an impressive 15,000 to 20,000 pies per week.

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One of your favourite pizzeria eateries dishes out more than delicious Italian food. They also deliver when it comes to making Piano Piano Pizzas available in your frozen foods section of 350 retail grocers across the GTA. Since the pandemic began, the Piano Piano frozen pizza brand has built a loyal following, selling an impressive 15,000 to 20,000 pies weekly.

Chef Victor Barry, owner of Piano Piano, the company, is at the helm. At 11 years old, Victor's parents ensured that he stayed out of trouble in his free time by having him lend a helping hand at his uncle's pizzeria. Unaware that the experience would ultimately lead to his decision to become a chef.

Through a high school co-op program, Victor had the opportunity to work at the Prince of Wales Hotel in Niagara-on-the-Lake under the guidance of then Executive Chef Lee Parsons. At 16, Victor made the bold decision to leave school and take a permanent job in the hotel's kitchen. He was the first to arrive each morning and last to leave at the end of each day.

He spent his days off in the St. Catharines Fairview Mall Chapters, propped up against the shelves in the cookbook aisle where Victor read for hours. It was then that he became obsessed with all things related to cooking.

When Victor turned 18, he was given the position of Chef de Partie in the hotel, station chef responsible for others much older than he.

He took some time to travel and work as a chef in distant locations like England, Bermuda, and Australia, returning to British Columbia and eventually settling in Toronto. As a visual learner, these experiences proved invaluable. His new skills soon landed him the role of Chef de Cuisine in 2005 at the fine dining restaurant Splendido, working with co-owner and Chef David Lee.

Barry attributes the source of his commitment and drive to playing hockey at an elite level as a kid to the constant desire to meet his father's approval and his uncle, who taught him to work hard and to make sure to get things done right the first time.

In 2008, Lee offered Victor the opportunity to purchase Splendido, building on the establishment's already fine reputation while creating his place as a well-respected restaurateur and chef. He became one of the first to introduce the tasting menu to fine dining. By 2015, Splendido reached a coveted #5 ranking on Canada's 100 Best Restaurant list.

The self-taught, ambitious, young chef had achieved what he had set out to do; make a name for himself. The intense commitment required took precious time away from his family.

In 2014, Barry was blessed with the arrival of his first daughter and in the same year, he experienced the loss of his father to cancer. The following year his second daughter was born. This joyful occasion was met only two months later with the devastating news that his wife was diagnosed with Ductal Carcinoma In Situ (DCIS) Breast Cancer. By year's end in 2015, Victor decided to close the beloved restaurant to be available for whatever his family needed.

Franco Prevedello, dubbed the Godfather of Dining, is a restaurateur known for his part in the successful launch of several acclaimed Toronto restaurants like Splendido, Pronto, Centro, and Nota Bene. 

A friendship had developed between the two men, a connection built on respect. Franco often playfully quipped about Victor's work habits, reminding him in Italian, "piano, piano, Victor," loosely translated – "Slow down. Take your time. Go slower, and pace yourself; you'll get more done."

When it was time to start again in 2016, Barry knew he needed to give way to the commitment and sacrifices it took to have a restaurant receive National recognition for its fine dining. It was time to create fine food in a fun and easy atmosphere. 

Franco owned the building at 88 Harbord Street in Toronto, a perfect location for Victor's new concept, and later that year, he and his wife, Nikki Leigh McKean, opened Piano Piano with long-time friend Brendan Piunno to join the partnership the following year. 

The restaurant offers American/Canadian/Italian food. Bandying around the notion that the dishes served are authentic to a region of Italy, Victor confirms that the recipes are 100% not Italian. "The inspiration for all of the flavours comes from what we think that Canadian people will enjoy eating," Victor adds.

There are now four Piano Piano locations, with a new location opening in Hamilton's dining hotspot in six months. Piccolo Piano Pizzeria is located across from the original Piano Piano on Harbord St. The company also acquired rival brand General Assembly to add to their lineup of frozen pizzas. 

Barry's role has evolved into that of Founder and CEO, overlooking operations down to the interior design of each restaurant. Nikki worked tirelessly with Alison McQuade, owner of Future Studio, to create the perfect image for each restaurant location, allocating a fresh look that represented the unique personality of each space and adding one-of-a-kind artwork supplied by their daughters.

"Making each space look identical is financially responsible but boring. We needed to walk into each space to see the character of the place and create something exciting around it," Victor reflects.

In 2021, Piano Piano opened its doors under the direction of talented executive chef and Oakville resident Tristan Duranleau. 

Some of their guests' favourite dishes are:

  • Mushroom Cavatelli with truffle-scented oyster mushroom and Parmigiano. $26
  • The new dish for sharing is the 14-ounce Glazed Octopus in fermented garlic honey with Japanese eggplant, Romesco bianco. $59
  • Or try the Burrata Con Funghi appetizer made of king oyster and cremini mushroom sott'olio, hazelnut, and garlic, served with focaccia. $19

By 2027, Barry envisions expansion of Piano Piano restaurants to reach 15 locations, adding, "The goal is to be the Italian equivalent to the Keg. I just want to provide delicious, exciting dining experiences to Canadians everywhere, at great value."

This job never gets old for Victor, sharing, "The favourite part of each day is that I get to work with my friends every day. Work with my wife. Make experiences for our guests."

He adds, "Piano Piano is not a fine dining restaurant; it's a casual fine dining place. It's as easy as walking in, saddling up at the bar and having a pizza and a beer, to celebrating a wedding. It's a little bit of everything."